Picture this: a timeless blend of tradition and innovation, where every tick whispers of luxury and precision – Blancpain has just unveiled an exciting evolution to their iconic Villeret collection, introducing three fresh 'Golden Hour' models that promise to redefine elegance on your wrist. But here's where it gets intriguing – are these updates the perfect modernization, or do they dilute the charm that made the originals so endearing? Let's dive in and explore what makes these new editions tick, and why they might just spark a debate among watch enthusiasts.
Today, Blancpain is breathing new life into its Villeret lineup with a total of sixteen new references under the 'Golden Hour' series. I know, that number might seem a bit daunting at first, but don't worry – I'll walk you through it step by step to make it all crystal clear. In essence, we're talking about three core models: the time-and-date focused Villeret Ultraplate, the larger Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune with its comprehensive calendar, and the petite Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune, which offers a moonphase display in a more compact size.
Across the entire range, the design has undergone subtle yet noticeable refinements to give it a more contemporary edge. For instance, the hands, resembling delicate leaves, are now slimmer and equipped with luminous material for better visibility in low light. On the dials, the previously applied '12' numeral has been swapped out for a sleek 'JB' emblem – Blancpain's signature – which also pops up again in the printed logo just below the dial. The quirky, serif-laden Roman numerals have been smoothed out, creating a cleaner, more streamlined appearance that's easier on the eyes. And at the caseback, the old solid rotors have made way for a three-dimensional, openworked weight adorned with the 'JB' motif, adding a touch of visual intrigue. To top it off, all models now come with updated leather straps that feature quick-change mechanisms, making it a breeze to switch them out for versatility.
Let's start with the most straightforward of the trio: the Villeret Ultraplate. This is Blancpain's take on a classic three-hand watch, measuring 40mm across and boasting a slim profile of just 8.7mm, complete with a date window for that extra functionality. You have choices in dial colors – a serene opaline or a warm golden brown – and in materials, either polished steel or luxurious 18k red gold, resulting in four distinct references. Under the hood, it runs on the reliable Calibre 1151 automatic movement, visible through the transparent caseback, offering a power reserve of 100 hours. It's a no-frills marvel, embodying Blancpain's flagship dress watch ethos – perfect for everyday elegance without overwhelming complications.
Now, shifting gears to the more intricate side, the remaining models highlight Blancpain's celebrated calendar moonphase layouts, which, in my view, are a hallmark of the brand's artistry. Who can resist the playful smirk of that signature Blancpain moon face, paired with a pointer-style date? In these new iterations, the moonphase gets a spotlight with a slightly enlarged aperture, featuring domed, satin-finished gold moons set against a deep blue ceramic sky sprinkled with golden stars. For the 40mm versions, it's that iconic smirking expression, while the 33.2mm models opt for a gentler, more relaxed 'sleepy' look – a subtle nod to varying moods, perhaps?
The 40mm Quantième Complet Phases de Lune stands out as a true calendar powerhouse, displaying not just the date via a curved pointer, but also the day of the week and the month. The case has been thoughtfully redesigned with refined proportions for the bezel, crown, lugs, and overall profile, giving it a sleeker feel. (And for beginners wondering, a complete calendar watch means it tracks multiple date elements, making it a handy tool for planning without needing to glance at your phone.) Importantly, this isn't an annual calendar, so for months with fewer than 31 days, a manual tweak is required. However, Blancpain nails the ease of use with its ingenious under-lug correctors – four levers tucked discreetly under each lug, linked to the caseback, allowing adjustments without any tools or interruptions to the case. This is a big deal for everyday wear! Plus, the movement here is the Calibre 6654.4, boasting a 72-hour power reserve and what Blancpain dubs 'secured' technology, meaning the calendar can be set at any time of day without risking errors – no more 'danger zones' to worry about. Available in the same opaline or golden brown dials and steel or red gold cases, this model accounts for four of the new references, each priced to reflect its complexity.
And this is the part most people miss – the smaller 33.2mm Quantième Phases de Lune combines a pointer date with the moonphase for a balanced complication in a dainty package. While it lacks the under-lug correctors, relying instead on conventional, tool-required pushers that interrupt the midcase, it still features a secure Calibre 913QL.P movement adjustable at any hour, ensuring foolproof operation. Like its siblings, it comes in two dial shades and two metals, but here's a fun twist: each variation also includes a diamond-set version, doubling the lineup to eight references total. This adds a shimmering luxury option, perfect for those who love a bit of sparkle – think of it as the watch equivalent of dressing up a classic outfit with jewelry.
So, what do we make of all this? Blancpain's Villeret collection was overdue for a refresh, especially with so much attention lately on their adventurous Fifty Fathoms line. Sure, we're often drawn to Blancpain's diving prowess (and rightfully so), but the Villeret, particularly in its more elaborate forms, truly showcases the brand's horological expertise. I particularly admire the emphasis on hidden innovations like under-lug correctors and secured movements – features that aren't flashy but make a world of difference in practicality, even if they're out of sight. For example, imagine setting your calendar during a busy workday without missing a beat; it's these details that elevate a watch from nice to indispensable.
Visually, the updated, modern aesthetic should win over fans who felt the older Villerets were a tad too whimsical. That said, personally, I'll mourn the loss of those quirky numerals – they injected so much character into the dials, almost like a playful wink from the watch. The enhanced moonphases are a definite upgrade, boosting visibility and detail. But here's where it gets controversial: that 'JB' motif at 12 o'clock? To me, it's a step too far – coupled with the seconds hand and the logo below, it's repeated three times on the dial, which feels redundant and clutters the clean look. Do you agree, or is it a bold brand statement that grows on you? I'd love to hear your thoughts!
Overall, the 'Golden Hour' series exudes a cozy warmth, especially when matching those rich dials with red gold cases – it's like pairing a sunset glow with golden hues for a harmonious vibe. The steel options keep things more accessible, price-wise, but there's an undeniable allure to the traditional charm of a triple calendar in gold, evoking old-world sophistication. It's a reminder that luxury watches aren't just timepieces; they're statements of style and heritage.
Now, for the nitty-gritty details, let's break down the specs for each model to help you decide which one might suit your wrist.
The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune 40mm
Reference Numbers: 6654N1142 55B, 6654N364255B, 6654N114655B, 6654N364655B
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 10.6mm
Case Material: Stainless steel or 18k red gold
Dial Color: Opaline or golden brown
Indexes: Applied 18k white or red gold markers
Water Resistance: 30 meters (suitable for everyday splashes, but not swimming)
Strap/Bracelet: Leather in blue or brown, with quick-change feature and folding clasp
Caliber: Blancpain Calibre 6654.4
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, moonphase
Power Reserve: 72 hours (that's three full days on a single wind!)
Winding: Automatic (self-winding via movement)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 28 (rubies that reduce friction for smoother operation)
The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 40mm
Reference Numbers: 6651N114255B, 6651N364255B, 6651N114655B, 6651N364655B
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 8.7mm
Case Material: Stainless steel or 18k red gold
Dial Color: Opaline or golden brown
Indexes: Applied 18k white or red gold markers
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Leather in beige or brown, with quick-change feature and folding clasp
Caliber: Blancpain Calibre 1151
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power Reserve: 100 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 28
The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune 33.2mm
Reference Numbers: 6126N118755B, 6126N368755B, 6126N114655B, 6126N364655B
Diameter: 33.2mm
Thickness: 10.4mm
Case Material: Stainless steel or 18k red gold
Dial Color: Opaline or golden brown
Indexes: Applied 18k white or red gold markers
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Leather in blue grey, honey, or brown, with quick-change feature and folding clasp
Caliber: Blancpain Calibre 913QL.P
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moonphase
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 20
As for pricing and availability, the Villeret Ultraplate 40mm kicks off at $13,100 for the steel version and $27,200 for gold. The Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune 40mm starts at $20,400 in steel and $36,000 in gold. Meanwhile, the Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune 33.2mm begins at $15,400 in steel and $32,300 in gold. These are all available right now and aren't limited editions, so no rush – but hurry if you spot one you love!
For even more insights, check out Blancpain's official site here: https://www.blancpain.com/en
What do you think – does this refresh capture the essence of luxury, or does it stray too far from the Villeret's playful roots? Are you team streamlined modern or nostalgic quirks? Share your opinions in the comments; I'd love to hear if you agree, disagree, or have a controversial take of your own!