Once the epitome of preppy leisure wear, the overall shift towards relaxed dressing means the boat shoe is now in ever-increasing demand by everyone who wants to stay comfortable and stylish in relaxed settings. Explore the heritage and characteristics of this iconic style in our boat shoe guide.
Table of Contents
- Boat Shoes: The Video Guide
- What Makes Boat Shoes Special? Boat Shoe Characteristics Defined
- Boat Shoe Characteristics
- The History of Boat Shoes
- Classic Vs. Modern Boat Shoe Styles
- How to Master the Boat Shoe Style
- Boat Shoe Maintenance: How to Care for Your Boat Shoes
- Boat Shoe Care
Boat Shoes: The Video Guide
Get ready to set sail around the globe, or at least around the specifics of the popular nautical-inspired white sole shoes we all know as the boat shoe! Raphael is on hand to guide you through the intricacies of this preppy fashion staple to ensure you always look “boat cool” whenever you wear a pair.
What Makes Boat Shoes Special? Boat Shoe Characteristics Defined
The boat shoe, also known as the deck shoe and top-sider, has followed the well-trodden path from being purely work/utility wear to becoming atruly classic piece of men’s footwear (and women’s, too). In 1980, with the publication of The Official Preppy Handbook by Lisa Birnbach the boat shoe began to be identified as an essential and integral part of preppy styles. Boat shoes, however, are not just restricted to preppies but have been adopted by a large number of people and are a staple in many wardrobes. Due to their unique design and construction, they are not just great for boat decks but the perfect footwear for summer months.
Boat Shoe Characteristics
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Moccasin Toe Construction
One of the most distinct parts of a boat shoe’s makeup is the moccasin style toe. The puckered stitching resembles that of an apron like you might find on another preppy fashion staple, the penny loafer. However, boat shoes feature a more rugged looking moc-toe.
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360 Degree Lacing System
Traditionally, boat shoes would feature long laces that fed through eyelets near the ankle and heel of the shoe before being laced and tied like a regular Derby shoe. The purpose of the 360 degree lacing system is to lock the foot into the shoe to ensure a firm grip in rough waters. Nowadays, the lacing at the sides and back is decorative and separate from the functional laces.
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Derby Construction
As you would expect from something within the casual category of footwear, boat shoes lace in the Derby style. This open lacing system allows for a greater range of adjustment and well as increased ease when putting the shoe on or taking it off. This also helps define the shoe as something other than a formal Oxford style.
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Thick Leather Laces
Unlike other types of footwear, boat shoes are laced with strips of leather, often in white as part of the shoe’s coastal identity. Waxed cotton laces may be king when it comes to more formal footwear styles, but these laces simply wouldn’t survive well for the more practical purposes of a boat shoe.
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Special Soles
The iconic white soles of a boat shoe are traditionally non-marking and bear a unique pattern to improve grip on slippery surfaces.
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Heel Stitching
At the heel of a boat shoe, you’ll find that the heel has been pinched and stitched in a horizontal line, mimicking the moccasin toe. This line of stitching is to create shape to the heel cup without having to resort to using several intricate pieces of leather like you would see on a regular dress shoe.
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Unlined Leather Uppers
Part of the practical nature of boat shoes dictates they should be comfortable and flexible. This means many traditional boat shoes are in fact unlined, so they can remain supple and provide a light feel when worn.
The History of Boat Shoes
Before the advent of the modern boat shoe, sailors and boatmen alike struggled to maintain a firm foothold on the slippery decks of their boats. For many years, frequent accidents were the norm, making Jack Sparrow look somewhat competent!
Sperry & the Herringbone Rubber Sole
In the early 1930s, an ardent sailor, Paul Sperry, was struggling with this problem in his everyday life. One winter day in Connecticut he took his dog, a co*cker spaniel named Prince, out for a romp and was amazed by Prince’s grip while running across ice. The traction he managed to generate on the slippery surface intrigued him.
Sperry figured that it had something to do with the pads of Prince’s feet. Upon closer examination, he realized the natural cracks and grooves on Prince’s paws formed a herringbone-like pattern that gave him grip while on the ice. Sperry then hit upon the idea of cutting similar patterns on the soles of the shoes he used while boating.
Paws for Thought
Inspired by his dog’s solid performance on the ice, Sperry realized the natural grooves on the dog’s paws were the key to anti-slip success. Adapting the design for human footwear, boat shoe soles look flat at first but once flexed, you can see how the grooves open up to increase traction. It’s this action that provides grip in slippery situations much better than other rubber-soled footwear such as a running shoe or even Crocs.
Siping, the U.S. Navy & U.S. Rubber Company
Sperry’s discovery already had a name, however, as the concept of splitting or siping the sole of a shoe had already been invented and patented in 1923 by John F. Sipe. Sperry used the same process, and his design was successful in increasing the traction of shoes on a boat’s surface.
Unfortunately, his black-soled boat shoes left unsightly marks on the boat’s deck, a major flaw. With renewed focus, Sperry tested a few more options and quickly realized that white-soled shoes didn’t leave any visible marks. So in 1935, he introduced the Sperry Top-Sidershoe with mid-to dark-brown leather uppers and a white rubber sole, with the bottoms cut ina trademark herringbone pattern. After this final modification, his shoes gained momentum and became the next big trend among sailors and boaters but remained a niche product.
Stable Sailing
Although not initially apparent to non-nautical folk, the name “Top-Sider” comes from the fact that Sperry’s shoes were designed to keep you on the top side of your boat. A major statement about the shoe’s abilities, but it’s been the mainstay of Sperry’s appeal to audiences for decades.
In 1939, the U.S. Navy recognized the benefit of the new shoes and negotiated a deal to manufacture Top-Siders for its sailors. Eventually, Paul Sperry sold his business to the U.S. Rubber Company, which started to market Sperry Top-Siders throughout America under the Sperry brand.
Going Dockside
Another term used to describe boat shoes is “Docksides” or “Docksiders”. While the term originated with Sperry’s famous shoes, the name is now used to describe pretty much any brand or style of boat shoe. This makes it interesting, as you could be using the same name to describe a shoe sold by either Walmart, Tommy Hilfiger, or Prada!
Boat Shoes FAQ
What is special about boat shoes?
The most unique feature of boat shoes is their distinctly scored or “siped” soles. This allows you to maintain grip while on slippery surfaces, such as the deck of a boat.
What makes boat shoes different?
There are several defining characteristics of a boat shoe, from the unlined leather upper, moccasin toe, and 360-degree lacing. But it’s perhaps the unique siped soles that open when flexed in order to give you a better grip on slippery surfaces.
Why are they called boat shoes?
Boat shoes get their name from the fact that they were created to be worn on boats. As the deck would become slippery with water, sailors needed a shoe that would keep them top-side. Thus, the boat shoe was designed by Paul Sperry in the early 1930s.
Are boat shoes meant to get wet?
As the name might suggest, boat shoes are intended to stand up to wet weather conditions. While it’s never a good idea to expose leather shoes to prolonged periods of wet conditions, the oiled leather uppers of a boat shoe make them harder wearing against water than a standard dress shoe.
Are you supposed to wear socks with Sperrys?
Sperry’s, or indeed any brand of boat shoe, can be worn either with or without socks. Traditionally, they would be worn without socks, but it’s entirely down to your own tastes as to how you wear yours.
Is it ok to wear socks with boat shoes?
Boat shoes can be worn with socks if you wish, but it pays to get them right. A pair of multicolored “crazy” socks can look a little juvenile with boat shoes, just as thin black dress socks can look like a formality clash. Coordinate your trousers, socks, and shoes well, and use a pair of no-show or ankle socks when in doubt.
Do you need boat shoes for a boat?
Although not strictly necessary while boating, a pair of boat shoes makes your boating experience all the more authentic. It’s worth noting that if you’re looking to engage in professional or extreme water-based activities, boat shoes may not be the right choice for you. However, for casual boating excursions, a pair of boat shoes is a fine addition.
Why do people wear boat shoes on a boat?
Boat shoes are worn due to their specially designed soles that provide extra grip. Inspired by his dog’s paws, Paul Sperry cut grooves in his shoes’ soles to improve his grip while at sea. With some development, the boat shoes we see today are largely unchanged from their original design.
Classic Vs. Modern Boat Shoe Styles
Having previously outlined the characteristics of classic, traditional boat shoes, it’s worth noting that there are many variations on the style offered by affordable to high-end retailers including Polo Ralph Lauren to the Italian luxury company Loro Piana.
Some purists only wear either the Sperry Top-Sider; either the Original Boat Shoe in Classic Brown or the Billfish 3–Eye in Dark Tan, or the Quoddy Men’s Boat Shoe as these styles most resemble Paul Sperry’s original design. However, there are a variety of high-quality manufacturers who offer comparable models.
As previously alluded to, the boat shoe style is also a favorite of the high-fashion world, and many a strong luxury fashion player has turned their hands to creating styles for their collections. The waterside heritage and association with wealthy folks who can afford yachting holidays have created a desire for the understated luxury look at many price points, thus contributing to a healthy portion of the footwear market share.
While leather – specifically nubuck – is most associated with traditional boat shoes, they are available in many different styles, materials, colors, and finishes. It’s without a doubt there’s been a recent push toward creating new updated styles for each passing season, but it can be easy to get carried away. Our advice is to stick closer to traditional models for the best bang for your buck.
How to Master the Boat Shoe Style
Apart from the obvious, when out boating, boat shoes can be worn in a variety of ways. In everyday wear, they can easily replace your sneakers and loafers, but shouldn’t be seen as a replacement for more formal styles like an Oxford.
Best Jackets for Boat Shoes
When it comes to boat shoes, it’s best to avoid structured jackets such as orphaned suit jackets or sports coats with a strong silhouette. A blazer may work due to the nautical association, but it’s generally an advisor to skip bold tailoring for the risk of looking too stuffy.
Instead, focus on soft, unstructured sports coats and odd jackets to capitalize on the boat shoe’s relaxed aesthetic. A particularly great pairing partner for boat shoes is the overshirt or “shacket”. It’s another garment that has utilitarian roots, and in blue tones can make an excellent blazer alternative in more dressed-down ensembles. You could also consider the Harrington Jacket as another great alternative here.
Best Shirts for Boat Shoes
Without a doubt, the classic white T-shirt is an excellent example of a great pairing partner when it comes to boat shoes. You could even lean into the sailing heritage by going for a striped Breton shirt.
Otherwise, avoid tailored dress shirts and go for other preppy style staples such as the classic OCBD (Oxford Cloth Button-Down), polo shirts, and potentially even a flannel shirt for transitional seasons.
Best Pants for Boat Shoes
As a classic rule of thumb, boat shoes should never be lighter in color than your pants or shorts. But recent years have seen far more creativity, allowing you to mix bolder colors together.
Perhaps most exciting is the multicolored checked Madras pattern that can be configured as a shirt, jacket or, indeed, pants. Or maybe Seersucker is more your style? Whatever you choose, these summer classics in cotton and linen fibers are a surefire success when wearing boat shoes.
Don’t forget that denim is also a happy partner to the humble boat shoe. Recently we’ve seen the comeback of a more classic cut, nothing like the skinnier fit that would have been available in a prior year. Opt for a classic, straight leg in a dark blue denim for a timeless look.
Going Sockless?
One point on which there has been much-heated debate is whether they should be worn with or without socks. Boat shoes were originally meant to be worn without socks for practically while boating, but in an urban setting, according to your school of thought, they should probably be worn with socks. If you are concerned that your bare feet will sweat too much, but you don’t like the look of socks, then a simple pair of ankle socks provide the best combination of style and comfort.
Boat Shoes and Knitwear
As boat shoes are usually associated with summer months, it may feel strange to consider wearing them with knitwear, but it is worth considering as there are many suitable knitwear options out there. Plus, boat shoes make a wonderful choice for transitional dressing, too.
Go for knits in a classic style – we’re big fans of a v-neck at the Gentleman’s Gazette, but a crew neck would also suit the nautical theme. Fibers like merino wool, cotton, and linen are all available as knitwear, which are some of the best for warmer weather or changing seasons.
Boat Shoe Maintenance: How to Care for Your Boat Shoes
Like all shoes, boat shoes need to be taken care of, especially since they are often exposed to saltwater and the sun.
Boat Shoe Care
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Leather Care for Smooth Leather Boat Shoes
To protect smooth leather from the elements, shine them with water-based cream shoe polish on a regular basis. It’s the stuff you find in glass jars, not tins. Don’t apply hard waxes for a mirror shine, as this makes your boat shoes look too formal, and can clog in the stitching. Avoid liquid and quick-drying polishes that contain alcohol or silicone, and stick to high-quality cream polishes.
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Leather Care for Suede & Nubuck Leather Boat Shoes
Suede boat shoes can be cleaned by sprinkling and massaging cornmeal onto the surface. Leave them overnight and then brush off the cornmeal. Use a brass bristle suede brush to realign the grain. Nubuck leather can be brought back to lustre using a nubuck brush. You can also remove spots using a pencil eraser and a vinegar and water solution. If you have oil or fat spots, apply rubber cement, allow it to dry and then rub it off. Again, you do it at your own risk.
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Canvas & Other Cloth-Based Boat Shoe Care
Although some say your canvas boat shoes can be machine washed if they don’t contain any leather, I would not do it. Much better to hand wash them with soap because you may destroy inexpensive boat shoes in the washing machine. Of course, don’t use any sort of polish on your canvas shoes!
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What To Do With Wet Boat Shoes
Dry your shoes at room temperature and avoid direct heat or sunlight to prevent them from drying out and developing cracks. Stuffing them with newspaper can help retain their shape when wet. Brush them when dry, and apply shoe cream if required.
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Practice Good Daily Care
Always use ashoe horn to put them on and maintain the shape and structure of their backs. Keep them free of dirt, dust and salt deposits and use a brush to do this as required. Store them carefully, using shoe trees to help retain their shape. And don’t forget to keep a close eye on their soles and get them repaired when you see significant signs of wear and tear
