Most of the time, when I hear that someone doesn’t like vegetables, I ask a few questions and come to the same conclusion: It’s about texture — typically the texture that resulted from drastic overcooking (or, worse, canning) experienced in the eater’s childhood. Slimy, mushy beets. Soggy Brussels sprouts. Gray, limp asparagus.
Which is when I’ll get on a soapbox about proper techniques: Foil-wrap and bake those beets just until a skewer goes through easily, but no further. Roast those Brussels sprouts at high heat, and in a big enough pan that there’s room for air to circulate. Blanch or saute or roast that asparagus just until it starts to bend at the tip when you pick it up — and not a second longer.
Some of us don’t mind mushy vegetables now and then, of course: I can boil or steam some squash until it’s soft, then mash it with a little olive oil and Parm and be a happy camper. But if I want to eat it with a little more intent — and, say, use a knife and fork instead of a spoon — I’ll treat it a little more carefully.
Advertisem*nt
Sometimes, the technique involves cutting the thing to a proper size. When I fix squash or zucchini for my boyfriend, who hates when the vegetable is soft, I slice it into big chunks, which gives me all that much more wiggle room when cooking it. That's what I did with a recipe by Melbourne-based chef Matt Wilkinson for zucchini that you sear in a ridged grill pan (just like I did for tacos last summer), then finish briefly in the oven before combining it with an amazing dressing that's a riff on Spanish white gazpacho, or ajo blanco. The finishing touch for this unconventional salad is nuts that have been sprinkled with my favorite fairy dust: smoked Spanish paprika.
When cooked that way, zucchini has the most wonderful texture: just barely soft in the center, slightly crunchy on the outside. It’s juicy, not mushy, and could help any zucchini hater come to their senses.
More from Food:
Weeknight Vegetarian archive
