Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (2024)

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ByAdam Kuban

Updated May 08, 2020

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Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (1)

This is my go-to recipe for homemade bagels. It's adapted from Bernard Clayton's Complete Book of Breads. Clayton, in turn, got the recipe from the folks at the now-defunct Jo Goldenberg's, the famous Jewish restaurant and delicatessen in Le Marais, the historical Jewish quarter of Paris.

These bagels take about thee hours from start to finish, a large chunk of that time being the hourlong rise and the 30 or so minutes in the oven. Make these for a brunch party, tell your guests they came from your oven, and watch their socks get knocked off. There's something about homemade bagels that really impresses people.

Recipe Details

Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe

Active60 mins

Total3 hrs

Serves10 bagels

Ingredients

  • 19.25 ounces bread flour (3 1/2 cups; 530g)

  • 1/4 ounceinstant dry yeast (2 1/2 teaspoons; 1 envelope active dry; 7g)

  • 2 tablespoons sugar

  • 1 tablespoon salt

  • 12 ounces hot water(1 1/2 cups; 340g; 120°–130°F)

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons malt syrup (for the boiling water; alternatively, you can use 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar)

  • 1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water (optional, for toppings)

Directions

  1. Add all the dry ingredients to the bowl of a food processor and pulse until mixed, about 5 seconds. With processor running, slowly add the water; process until dough comes together and rides up over the blade, about 30 seconds. Continue processing until dough becomes satiny and elastic, about 30 seconds more.

  2. Transfer dough to a large, lightly oiled bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

  3. After dough has risen but before you divide and shape it, prepare your water bath: Add the malt syrup to 6 quarts of water over high heat and let it come to a boil as you continue with the following steps.

    Also: Preheat the oven to 400°F.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (3)

  4. After dough has doubled in bulk, turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface and press down with your fingers to expel the gases. Divide dough into 10 equal portions.

  5. Ball a portion of dough, then roll it into a "rope" about 7 inches long and about 1 inch thick. (Tip: I like to taper the ends slightly in preparation for the next step.)

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (4)

  6. Wrap the dough around the back of your hand, overlapping the ends in your palm. Place your hand, along with the dough, palm-down on the work surface and roll dough back and forth until ends crimp and seal together. Place dough ring under a span of plastic wrap while you repeat rope-and-loop process with remaining dough portions.

    Tip: You can brush a little water on the ends to help them stick, but this dough is wet enough that it usually comes together without help.

    A note on hand size: The recipe calls for wrapping the rope around your palm, but I like a smaller, tighter bagel, so I wrap it around my first three fingers, as shown. If you have a smaller hand, you could probably wrap it around all your fingers.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (5)

  7. Allow bagels to rise again for 10 minutes. At this point, your malt syrup–water should be boiling. Use a skimmer or slotted spoon to carefully add bagels, one at a time, to the water. (Note: no more in the pot than 3 at a time.) Bagels should sink but then rise again after a few seconds. Simmer for 1 minute, flipping bagels at the 30-second mark.

    Tip: The original recipe calls for this second rising, but I often skip it. I've found it makes very little, if any, noticeable difference.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (6)

  8. Remove bagels from water with skimmer or slotted spoon to a clean kitchen towel. Pat dry.

    If making plain bagels, proceed to Step 10.

  9. For bagel toppings: Place bagels on wire cooling rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Brush bagel tops with egg-water mixture. Shake on desired toppings. Sesame seed, poppy seed, kosher salt, minced onion, and minced garlic are classic (at least in NYC).

    The baking sheet will collect excess dry toppings (such as sesame or poppy seeds). Simply pour them back into their containers for reuse.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (7)

  10. Place bagels on prepared baking sheet. Bake until light brown and shiny, 15 to 20 minutes. Flip, and bake until reverse side is golden-brown and shiny, about 10 minutes more.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (8)

Special equipment

Large baking sheet, oiled with shortening or nonstick cooking spray and then dusted with cornmeal (or just use a nonstick baking sheet or parchment)

This Recipe Appears In

  • How to Make Bagels at Home
  • Baking
Nutrition Facts (per serving)
213Calories
1g Fat
43g Carbs
7g Protein

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Nutrition Facts
Servings: 10
Amount per serving
Calories213
% Daily Value*
Total Fat 1g1%
Saturated Fat 0g1%
Cholesterol 0mg0%
Sodium 638mg28%
Total Carbohydrate 43g16%
Dietary Fiber 1g5%
Total Sugars 5g
Protein 7g
Vitamin C 0mg0%
Calcium 12mg1%
Iron 1mg3%
Potassium 70mg1%
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.

(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)

Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (2024)

FAQs

Why are my homemade bagels tough? ›

When too much flour is kneaded in, bagels become dense, hard and tough, instead of crisp and chewy. It can easily take 10 minutes of mixing and kneading before the right texture and gluten strength is achieved. This is what the inside of a well-made bagel should look like.

How do you make homemade bagels less chewy? ›

Swapping in ½ cup of whole-wheat flour for ½ cup of the bread flour will make the bagels slightly less chewy but will also give them a boost of flavor.

What kind of flour is best for bagels? ›

Bread flour – Because of its high protein content, bread flour makes these homemade bagels delightfully chewy. This recipe also works with all-purpose flour, they're just a bit less chewy than bagels made with bread flour. Maple syrup – It activates the yeast and gives the bagels a hint of sweetness.

What is the perfect texture for a bagel? ›

For it to truly be a bagel, it must be boiled before it is baked. A brief boiling (typically less than a minute) quickly forms a gel-like barrier on the outside of your bagel (just look after boiling; they're gummy in texture). Once baked, this “gel” sets into the signature chewy, dense texture you expect from a bagel.

Why do my homemade bagels go flat? ›

According to Molly, “If the bagels proof too much, they'll deflate in the water bath.” If you're keeping an eye on your dough, she advises pulling it a little too early rather than a little too late (and definitely before they double in size), as it's better to be underproofed.

Can you overmix bagel dough? ›

Given how difficult it is to mix bagels properly by hand, or even with a stand mixer, overworking the dough is a rare occurrence. But if you're making a half batch or using a particularly high-powered food processor (or if fears of under-mixing have led to an overzealous approach), problems can occasionally crop up.

What to do when bagels get hard? ›

To help soften a hard bagel, simply wrap it in a moist paper towel and microwave it for 15 seconds. You can also set the bagel on a microwave-safe plate, then surround it with a few water drops or lightly mist it and put it in the microwave for 30 seconds.

How do you keep bagels from hardening? ›

If the bagels are fresh from the bakery, make sure they cool completely before you put them in the plastic bag. It's also important to squeeze any excess air out of the bag before sealing it, otherwise the bagels might harden. Stored this way, whole bagels should stay fresh for about six days.

What does baking soda do to bagels? ›

Baking soda makes the water more alkaline, giving the bagels a pretzel-like quality that contributes to their chewiness. Just one teaspoon helps the bagels develop a shiny, dark-brown exterior as they bake. One thing to keep in mind: Keep the water bath at a constant simmer.

Should you punch down bagel dough? ›

Since bagels are meant to be chewy and denser than other breads, punching down the dough helps to deflate it and remove air bubbles so you can easily divide and form the dough into bagel shapes, using your preferred method.

Why do you dip bagels in water? ›

Boiling the bagel pre gelatinizes the crust. for a shiny finish. and prevents. the dough from expanding too much in the oven.

What can I add to a bagel to make it better? ›

Eight bagel toppings to try beyond just cream cheese
  1. Spinach & Artichoke Dip Bagel. ...
  2. Jalapeño Popper Bagel. ...
  3. Honey Pecan Bagel. ...
  4. Everything Reuben Bagel. ...
  5. Berry Cream Cheese Bagel. ...
  6. White Bean & Roasted Red Pepper Bagel. ...
  7. Pesto Egg in a Hole Bagel. ...
  8. Bacon, Tomato & Alfredo Bagel Melt.

What makes a bagel better? ›

A good bagel should have a thin, shiny, crackly crust spotted with the kind of microblisters that you can only get from proper boiling followed by a high-temperature bake. It's these little bubbles that add both surface area and crunch.

What makes bagels in New York so good? ›

a regular bagel is the water you boil them in. Much like a specific vineyard terroir is used to make a wine, certain minerals in New York City tap water are attributed to creating the best bagels. These include low concentrations of calcium and magnesium and a high level of sediment.

How to stop bagels from deflating? ›

3) When in doubt, cut your proof short

According to Molly, “If the bagels proof too much, they'll deflate in the water bath.” If you're keeping an eye on your dough, she advises pulling it a little too early rather than a little too late (and definitely before they double in size), as it's better to be underproofed.

Should you flip bagels when baking? ›

Bake the bagels.

Flip the bagels so that they are bottom-side up (this helps them maintain their shape).

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