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The possibilities for tamale fillings are unlimited, but two constant components needed are tamale dough, called masa, and corn husks. Many supermarkets with a well-stocked Hispanic foods aisle carry the husks and masa harina, the corn flour needed to make tamale dough. Here are some other resources.
El Indio, 3695 India St.; (619) 299-0333. If you don’t want to make your own tamale dough, El Indio sells prepared masa in 5- and 10-pound tubs for $7.50 and $15 respectively. They sell red masa with chili powder added or plain. Place your order for prepared masa at least 24 hours in advance. Corn husks are also available for $4 a package. You will need two bags of husks for 10 pounds of masa, which should yield about 60 tamales.
Gonzalez’s Northgate Markets, San Diego, Chula Vista, Escondido, Vista, Fallbrook; northgatemarkets.com. In addition to masa harina, the Northgate Markets sell prepared masa for 99 cents a pound. No advance orders required. Corn husks are $3.99 a package.
MexGrocer. com: Order online if your can’t easily find the ingredients you need. MexGrocer.com also sells tamale-making kits.
— CAROLINE DIPPING
Some Assembly Required
Whether you throw a tamalada (tamale-making party) or tackle the project solo, there are some techniques to streamline assembly and steaming. Cooking instructor and tamale maker Katherine Emmenegger offers these suggestions:
Outerwear: You will need 2 bags of dried corn husks to make about 3 dozen tamales. Use the largest husks. Soak husks in hot water for 1 hour. Remove any corn silk, rinse and drain.
The playing field: Lay the husk flat on a plate or work surface with the smooth side up and the narrow end facing you. Scoop 2 tablespoons of masa onto the husk.
Fill ’er up: Lay a piece of plastic wrap over the masa and press with your palm. Remove plastic wrap and add 1 to 2 tablespoons filling down the center of the masa. Bring the long sides of the husk together to encase the filling in masa, fold the bottom of the husk up and roll the husk, but not too tightly.
The whole enchilada: If you are making a tamale that has all the ingredients in the masa and no filling, shape the masa mixture into a log and bring the long sides of the husk together. Fold the bottom of the husk up and roll the husk, but not too tightly.
All steamed up: Stand the tamales up in a large steamer or colander with the open end up. Load the steamer into a large pot filled with 2 inches of water. The water should not touch the tamales. Lay a damp cloth over the tamales and cover with the lid. Bring to a simmer to steam the tamales for about 1 hour, checking periodically to make sure the water level is consistent.
Under pressure: Tamales can be steamed in a pressure cooker, loaded on a trivet with 1 cup of water at 8 p.s.i. for 15 to 20 minutes. Reduce the pressure with the natural release method and check for doneness.
Start eating! Tamales are done when the masa pulls cleanly away from the husk. The tamale should be soft, yet firm and not mushy.
It’s tamale time in Mexico. The season began Saturday with the feast day of the Virgin of Guadalupe, that country’s patron saint, and carries through the eight-night celebration of Las Posadas, which begins tonight.
And no Christmas or New Year party — south of the border or in Latino homes here, for that matter — would be complete without tamales.
The tamale has been recorded as early as 5000 B.C. in pre-Columbian history. Its association as a Christmas dish seems to have cropped up about three centuries ago.
Since the 1900s, tamales have become known and loved by all cultures, said Katherine Emmenegger, who has been teaching tamale-making for five years at Great News! Cooking School in Pacific Beach. Through the years, she said, the most common varieties of tamales have emerged as red and green chili, chicken, pork, beef, sweet, cheese and vegetables.
Because they are labor- and time-intensive to make, tamales have long been relegated to holiday fare, Emmenegger said.
“So many people want to make tamales that taste like what their grandmothers used to make,” Emmenegger said. “The traditional way is a very long process, with the women of the family working together to make the sauces and meats, preparing the masa, and finally assembling and wrapping the tamales before steaming them in large pots.
“The process could take all day, the preparation often starting one or two days in advance,” she said. “It is virtually unheard of to make a few tamales.”
Undaunted, Emmenegger has streamlined the tamale-making process and shares many tips for making them.
Masa (Tamale Dough)
Makes enough for about 36 tamales
4 cups packed masa, such as Maseca Para Tamales
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 teaspoons salt
4 cups liquid (beef, chicken or vegetable broth, or fruit juice. If making dessert masa, use liqueur or other sweet liquid.)
1 1⁄3 cups vegetable shortening or lard
In a deep bowl, combine the masa, baking powder and salt. Pour the broth or other liquid into the masa a little at a time, working it in with your fingers.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whip the vegetable shortening or lard until fluffy; add the masa and combine until just mixed.
(From Katherine Emmenegger)
Traditional Spicy Shredded Beef Tamales
Makes 3 dozen tamales
BEEF
4 pounds beef shoulder, rinsed and dried
Salt to taste
Pepper to taste
Chili powder to taste
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 large yellow onions, peeled and julienne
3 garlic cloves, crushed
3 cups vegetable broth
SAUCE
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large yellow onion, peeled and diced small
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 (28-ounce) can tomato purée
2 tablespoons ground cumin or to taste
3 tablespoons ancho chili powder or to taste
1 tablespoons dry oregano, crumbled
or to taste
Salt to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste
For the beef: Season the beef with the salt, pepper and chili powder.
In a large pot over medium heat, heat the oil and brown the beef on all sides. Move the meat to a platter. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until translucent. Return meat to the pot; cover and braise until the meat is fork tender, about 2 to 3 hours.
Transfer the meat to a platter to cool, reserve the stock. Shred the meat and set aside.
Strain the stock and reserve the onions and garlic; discard the liquid.
For the sauce: In the same pot used for the beef, over medium heat, heat the oil and sauté the onions and garlic for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomato purée, cumin, ancho chili powder, oregano and reserved onions and garlic from the stock. Simmer for 20 minutes. Adjust the seasoning with salt and cayenne pepper.
Cool and combine the sauce with the shredded beef.
Assemble and steam tamales as instructed in accompanying recipe.
(From Katherine Emmenegger)
Salsa Verde Chicken Tamales
Makes about 36 tamales
SALSA VERDE
5 pounds tomatillos, husked, washed and cored
4 serrano or jalapeño chilies, washed, cored and seeded, or more to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 large yellow onions, peeled and diced small
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 cup cilantro leaves, minced
1 tablespoon chili powder or to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
CHICKEN
6 cups cooked, shredded chicken (if you like, purchase a whole rotisserie chicken)
For the salsa verde: In a food processor, purée the tomatillos and serrano chiles.
In a medium saucepan over high heat, heat the oil and sauté the onion and garlic for 5 minutes. Add the puréed mixture and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Add the cilantro and chili powder. Season with salt and pepper.
In a large bowl, combine the shredded chicken with 2 cups of the salsa verde. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Prepare the masa (see accompanying recipe) by replacing 2 cups of the stock with 2 cups of the salsa verde.
Assemble and steam. (See accompanying instructions.)
Serve with the remaining salsa.
(From Katherine Emmenegger)
Grilled Pineapple and Macadamia Nut Tamales
Makes about 3 dozen
MASA
4 cups packed masa, such as Maseca brand for tamales
1 tablespoon baking powder
3 cups pineapple juice
1/2 cup Coco Lopez cream of coconut
1 1⁄3 cups vegetable shortening or lard
2⁄3 cup packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
FILLING
1 pineapple, peeled, cored and sliced into rings
Grapeseed oil for grilling
1 1⁄2 cups chopped macadamia nuts, toasted
1 cup sweetened shredded coconut, toasted
Whipped cream
For the masa: In a deep bowl, combine the masa, baking powder and salt. Pour the liquids into the masa a little at a time, working it in with your fingers.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whip the vegetable shortening or lard until fluffy; add the masa and the brown sugar and vanilla and combine until just mixed.
For the filling: Preheat grill to high and oil the grid. Grill the pineapple on both sides until well marked, but still crisp. Transfer to a tray and cool.
Dice the pineapple small. Fold the diced pineapple, macadamia nuts and coconut into the masa.
Assemble and steam as directed in accompanying recipe, but rather than spreading the masa, roll it into a log shape.
Serve with the whipped cream.
(From Katherine Emmenegger)
